Once upon a time, (October 2023), our planned trip to Jordan and Egypt suddenly seemed like not such a good idea. A contingency plan was hastily devised and voila! we found ourselves in España!
We had a brief trip to Spain about a decade before and marvelled at the architecture of Madrid, the medieval walls of Toledo and the vibrancy of Barcelona. This time we vowed to slow things down and enjoy a decent visit to each of our chosen destinations. If truth be known, we were flying by the seat of our pants without a travel agent to guide us. But thanks to some globe-trotting friends, we assembled a list of some great hotels, museums and must-see entertainment venues at the last minute.
With the excellent train systems in Spain, we easily maneuvered between Madrid, Seville, Granada, and Malaga. We also seamlessly rented a car from our hotel in Malaga to take a day trip to the breathtaking town of Ronda. Let’s start off by talking about Madrid.
Historical Marvels of Madrid
Madrid, the vibrant capital of Spain, boasts a rich tapestry of cultural, historical, and modern highlights. Our stay started at the Plaza Mayor where our hotel Pestana Plaza Mayor was located. The square, once the main town square of Madrid, dates back to the late 1500s. It has weathered 3 different fires and several reconstructions. Plaza Mayor has hosted grand fiestas, soccer games, bullfights and until 1765 was the site of many of the Spanish Inquisition’s executions of heretics and witches. Today, it is noted for an annual Christmas market, street performers, trendy shops, restaurants and cafes and great people-watching.
Less than a 10-minute stroll from Plaza Mayor you will arrive at the Puerta del Sol – “Gate of the Sun”. This square is considered the heart of Madrid and serves as kilometer zero from which all other roads through the city are measured. Like Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol has a rich history and has been used to celebrate major events since the 15 century. It is the busiest square in Madrid. A clock tower there has been ringing in Spain’s New Year’s since 1962.
Puerta del Sol is also home to an emblematic statue that adds to the charm of the square—the Bear and the Strawberry Tree. This bronze sculpture, officially known as “El Oso y el Madroño” in Spanish, depicts a bear standing on its hind legs reaching for the fruit of a strawberry tree.
The Bear and the Strawberry Tree is an enduring symbol of Madrid, symbolizing the city’s resilience and strength. The statue has its roots in the city’s coat of arms, and its presence in Puerta del Sol provides a delightful contrast to the bustling urban surroundings.
Another “must-see” in Madrid is the Royal Palace with its impressive architecture hinting at the intriguing history of Spain. The Palace is the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family. Unfortunately for us, the Palace was closed to visitors during our stay so we had to be content with strolling around the buildings and the gardens. I always like to have a reason to return to a vibrant city such as Madrid!
Located near the Royal Palace, Almudena Cathedral is the main cathedral of Madrid. It is a relatively modern cathedral, consecrated in 1993, and features a mix of architectural styles, including neo-Romanesque and neo-Gothic.
Art & Culture of Madrid
There are two wonderful museums in the city for art enthusiasts: the Prado Museum – a treasure trove of masterpieces, housing works by iconic artists like Velázquez, Goya, and El Greco, and the Reina Sofia Museum – which we visited on our first trip. The Reina Sofia boasts contemporary art and showcases the famous anti-war piece “Guernica” by Pablo Picasso.
I was unaware that this intriguing work actually was hanging in New York’s MOMA for decades until a democratic government was restored to Spain. Picasso insisted that his 1937 painting should not return to his homeland until there was lasting peace. It wasn’t until 1981, with much protesting, that the Americans finally gave Guernica back to Spain. It is definitely worth seeing and if you are learning Spanish like we are, you’ll want to listen to Duolingo’s podcast that tells the story of Picasso’s Guernica.
Of course, there are a myriad of options to explore if you want to take in flamenco. We decided that we would wait til we went to Seville – the birthplace of flamenco – but your hotel can arrange for you to see a show locally – either with or without dinner. Flamenco consists of dancers, both male and female, in elaborate, colourful costumes dancing to vibrant Spanish flamenco guitar with vocalizations, snaps and claps. A must-see in Spain!
Entertainment & Nightlife
Madrid definitely comes alive at night. There are so many things to see and do.
We spent several hours going through the Mercado San Miguel exploring the various stalls offering traditional Spanish tapas, including a diverse selection of cured meats, cheeses, olives, and other savory bites. There is an endless variety of gourmet products such as truffles, Iberian ham, and specialty olive oils to try. Pair your tapas with a glass of Spanish wine. Mercado San Miguel features several wine bars where you can enjoy both red and white wines from different regions of Spain. There are craft beer and cocktail bars and sweet treat kiosks to finish up your grazing. You can even take a cooking class and learn some of the traditional Spanish techniques.
The Gran Vía is one of Madrid’s most famous and bustling streets, often referred to as the “Broadway of Madrid” due to its theatres, shops, restaurants and vibrant atmosphere. Gran Via construction began in 1910 making it more than 100 years old.
As the sun sets, the Gran Vía comes alive with a kaleidoscope of lights, and the nightlife takes centre stage. Locals and visitors alike revel in the infectious energy of the city’s bars, clubs, and flamenco shows. There are a number of great roof-top bars where you can admire the city views.
We didn’t find a lot of live music in our area in the heart of the city, but we did enjoy a set at a local jazz club (Cafe Central) with songstress Sheilsh Cutty and her band. Be sure to check out this club if you like live music.
Sheilsh Cutty (vocals) with Iker (guitar), Alberto (bass) and Mario (drums). (Madrid, Spain – November 2023)
One of the best tips we received from some well-travelled friends, (thank you, Amanda & Howard!) was to get tickets to WAH! Madrid. I’m not even sure how to describe this to you. It is an immersive evening of art, music, food and fun. I guess you might call it a “gastro-musical experience”. We went on Hallowe’en so the place was decorated to the hilt to reflect all things creepy and fun. We enjoyed wandering around the displays and checking out the food samplings.
Then you are ushered into a grand theatre with a ginormous stage and screens. We were treated to a show by a score of musicians, dancers and singers that was spell-binding. Music styles ranged from pop to rock to classical and traditional flamenco. The talent was incredible. When the show is over, there is a third part of the evening including dancing to a DJ and hobnobbing with the talented performers into the wee hours. We elected not to stay for this part but I’m sure it was great fun for the under 30 crowd!
The Essentials
Visit Madrid (and all of Spain) in the spring or fall. Madrid, in recent years, has been known to have some unbearable (35-40 degrees) July & August weather. In 2023, even September was hot. We found Madrid to be a bit cool in November – jackets were needed even during the day.
Take some euros with you but you will be able to tap your way around the city easily. It’s nice to have some local currency for tips, buskers and little kiosks where you might just buy a coffee or an ice cream.
We highly recommend Pestana Plaza Mayor as a lovely boutique hotel that is perfectly situated in the city.
Madrid is a very walkable city but it also has a very reliable and easy-to-navigate METRO which runs from 6 am to 1:30 am There is an Airport Express Shuttle from Barajas Airport to the city centre which conveniently runs 24/7. The 40-minute trip will cost you 5 euros, which can be paid electronically and there is lots of room for luggage.
Keep in mind: Spaniards typically have a late dinner, often starting around 9:00 PM. It’s customary to linger over meals, enjoying the sobremesa, a lovely word that refers to the tradition of relaxing at the table after a meal.
Tipping is common in Spain, but it’s not as generous as in some other countries. A service charge is often included in the bill, so make sure to check.
Yes, bullfighting still exists in Spain, having been declared a part of the country’s cultural heritage. Only about 2% of Spaniards went to a bullfight in the 2021-2022 season. If you are so inclined, you can witness a bullfight at the Plaza del Torros in Madrid from mid-March to mid-October. (Don’t tell them I sent you!)
For further reading and planning, a great resource for information about Madrid can be found here: Tourism Madrid
Madrid was marvelous – vibrant, full of culture and history, a perfect introduction to our Spain vacation.
Next stop: SEVILLE!
Read about GRANADA and the ALHAMBRA.
Other blog posts you may enjoy:
A Helluva Time in Hanoi, Vietnam
The Palm Court, London (you gotta eat here!)
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