Back in 1974, I spent a week skiing at Lake Garda in the Italian Dolomites. It was early spring, the skiing was fairly ho-hum, but the lake and the surrounding scenery more than made up for it. One afternoon I played tennis on a hotel court perched on a little promontory sticking out into the water. The weather was mild, the light was perfect, and I can still hear the pop of tennis balls as boats cruised past. I never forgot that moment. It was idyllic, slightly surreal, and completely stunning.
Fast forward a few years—well, decades—and we suddenly had a few free days before heading to the Amalfi Coast. We had already “done” Rome, didn’t feel the pull of Naples, and those Italian lakes came rushing back to me. This time we chose Lake Como, perhaps the most famous of them all. Tucked into northern Italy, it’s where the Alps loosen their tie, take a deep breath, and let elegance take over.
A 90-minute private transfer from Milan brought us to the Hotel Belvedere in the town of Bellagio. The lake curls around steep, forested hills dotted with pastel villages, grand villas, and gardens that look suspiciously well-behaved year-round. Como, Bellagio, Varenna and several smaller towns line the water, all connected by ferries that make getting around feel pleasantly old school. The air is a mix of mountain crisp and Mediterranean ease, and life encourages long lunches, slow walks, and frequent pauses just to admire the view. It’s refined without being stuffy, dramatic without trying too hard, and very easy to fall for. I would bet many a love song has been inspired by the scenery.
Then there was the Hotel Belvedere. With a name like that, you half expect to stumble into an Agatha Christie plot involving a missing inheritance, a black sheep son, feuding relatives, and at least one inconvenient body. Luckily, nothing of the sort came to pass, and our stay was free of intrigue, poison, or suspicious alibis.
The whole area, though, is drenched in old European and international wealth. Think grand villas with ornamental gardens, charmingly expensive towns, and narrow, winding roads clearly meant for a jaunty Alfa rather than a sensible rental car. Sleek boats glide up and down the lake, luxury cruisers flash by, and yes, movie stars lurk in the background. George Clooney has a place here. Of course he does. He seems like the type for whom Lake Como ownership feels less like a choice and more like a requirement.
And this isn’t exactly a new trend. The Romans loved the area, as did the Renaissance elite and the Victorian crowd. Today it’s wildly, almost comically busy. Everyone grumbles about over-tourism and the region pulled in 1.5 billion euros in tourist revenue in 2023. Lake Como is not a destination you do on a shoestring—unless your handbags are handmade Italian leather and cost more than your first car.
Once we settled in, though, it was easy to see why people come. The lake and mountains are beautiful from every angle. Bellagio’s streets, shops, church, promenade, hillside villas, and waterfront make it a photographer’s dream, and there are countless similar towns scattered up and down the lake.
Our hotel was a short 10-minute walk from “downtown” Bellagio. The room and gardens were luxurious, and lunch by the pool felt delightfully indulgent. Wandering the town, we felt lucky to be surrounded by such beauty. There were narrow lanes, small shops, plenty of al fresco dining, and the constant movement of ferries shuttling people from town to town along the Y-shaped lake. The promenade was lined with blooming flowers, busy birds, and endless views.
That evening we had dinner at the hotel, enjoying a good tasting menu at a staggering price.
The next morning, we walked along the lake to Villa Melzi, owned by the Melzi d’Eril family and now a public monument. Villa Melzi is Lake Como at its most effortlessly cool. Built in the early 1800s as a summer escape, it still feels like a place meant for long walks and no schedules. The gardens are the main attraction, relaxed rather than fussy, with winding paths, shady trees, small water features, and perfectly timed views that make you stop mid-sentence. Nothing demands attention, yet everything looks just right. The villa itself remains private, which somehow improves the experience. You’re left to wander, slow down, and soak it all in, feeling slightly smug that you’ve found one of Lake Como’s most quietly beautiful spots.
That evening we had supper at Le Punto, a charming restaurant perched at “the point,” where the three arms of Lake Como meet. The food was excellent, and the sunset was spectacular.
The next day we headed to Varenna, where a taxi boat was waiting to take us across the lake to Villa Monastero. Owned by the Province of Lecco, it’s a striking property that stretches along the eastern shore. Once a medieval monastery, it later became a private residence and now draws visitors with its long, slender gardens that follow the curve of the lake. Cypress, citrus, and palms line the path, along with classical statues and terraces. Inside, the rooms are elegant but not showy, letting the lake steal the spotlight through tall windows. We spent a very pleasant couple of hours lingering in the shade because the heat was unrelenting.
People often ask how many villas are open to the public around Lake Como. There’s no official count, but in practical terms, about 10 to 15 are regularly open either seasonally or year-round. They include well-known stops like Villa Carlotta, Villa del Balbianello, and the gardens of Villa Serbelloni, plus several smaller properties. Beyond those, there are dozens more historic villas you can admire only from the lake or the road. Many are still private homes, hotels, or event venues, and Lake Como is famously protective of its privacy. Think of those villas as scenery rather than attractions. If you’re actively touring, you’ll probably visit a handful over a few days without getting villa fatigue. If you travel by ferry, you’ll lose count by lunchtime.
That evening we dined in style at Suisse.
And so ended our whirlwind visit to Lake Como. I’m a happy, comfortably off, retired physician, but every now and then —usually when I see those beautiful villas, many of them privately owned—I wish that just once I could be bathed in that level of wealth. At Lake Como, you can almost taste it.
It’s a fantasy, no medications required.
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