When travelling to Europe, we’ve made it a habit to take a few days to recover from jet lag. London has been our usual spot, and in 2019, we tried Lyon, France, which was delightful. This time, we opted for Amsterdam.
A few years back, we stayed in Amsterdam but chose accommodations in the suburbs to save on costs. While it was a good visit, staying outside the city center left us feeling a bit disconnected. So, this time, we decided to stay right in the heart of Amsterdam, amidst the iconic canals and quirky houses.
A Step Back in Time
Amsterdam originated in the 12th century as a small fishing village and gradually transformed into a major economic and cultural hub, peaking during the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century. The famous canal system was constructed during this time, along with the flourishing of Dutch art, exemplified by the masters of the era – Vermeer, Rembrandt, Van Gogh, to name a few.
Amsterdam derives its name from the Amstel River which runs through the city. Today, the canals separate the city into 90 different “islands”.
We booked our stay at “Hotel Craftsman,” nestled on the Singel canal in the central canal district. The hotel, housed in a centuries-old building, was indeed pricey, and the rooms were predictably snug. We stayed in the Clockmaker’s Room but you can also choose The Bike Maker, The Cartographer, The Boatbuilder, The Artist or The Musician. Each room is decorated with the suitable tools of the trade. After unpacking, we took to the streets to explore.
The city’s endless canals, lined with charmingly crooked houses and bustling with people, create an ambiance like no other. There are about 3000 houseboats in Amsterdam – many residents choose to live year-round on them.
One famous houseboat is called Poezenboot or “The Cat Boat”. It is a non-profit cat shelter which has been taking in stray and homeless felines since 1965. You are welcome to visit – just book a time online.
We enjoyed a leisurely walk then hopped on a sightseeing boat ride. Later on, we savoured a delicious tapas dinner with people-watching on a busy street corner. By 9:00 PM, jet-lagged but content, we crashed into bed.
Morning Magic in Amsterdam
We woke up early at 6:30 AM to find a quiet city with a serene view of the canals and the lovely old houses.
Coffee and breakfast spots were plentiful, each offering a cozy, inviting vibe. After a delightful continental breakfast in our hotel, we laced up our runners and set off on foot.
Amsterdam is incredibly pedestrian and bicycle-friendly, making it a perfect city for walking. In fact, there are over 800,000 bicycles in the city – although apparently, the Dutch are not always careful with the bikes and about 10,000 are fished out of the canals annually!
But what should you do in Amsterdam?
Endless “top 10” lists exist online, but a visit to the Rijksmuseum, home to an impressive collection of Dutch Masters and more, is a must. Right next to that is the Van Gogh Museum and then the Stedelijk Museum (for modern and contemporary art). In fact, there are 75 different museums and galleries in Amsterdam – of which these three are the most popular.
After a leisurely 25-minute walk—punctuated by a few near-miss encounters with cyclists—we arrived at the Rijksmuseum. It didn’t disappoint. The collection was as vast as it was impressive, but after 2 ½ hours, our jet lag and achy knees had us limping back to the hotel.
We stopped for lunch at a corner café, where we enjoyed tasty sandwiches while watching the world go by—cyclists zipping, pedestrians strolling, trams rolling, and canal boats drifting.
I don’t think we could be faulted for wandering aimlessly looking at the oodles of shops and their wares – wonderful baked goods – loaves of bread, pastries, cakes and stroopwafels! There were shops with delectable cheeses, cured meats, candles, souvenirs and even – rubber ducks. Yes, there is an entire store in Amsterdam devoted to rubber ducks! (Don’t ask; there is no reasonable explanation.)
For supper, we were advised to skip the more touristy “old town” area and instead explore locally. We stumbled upon an Italian restaurant, Momenti, tucked away in one of the many little alleyways. Dining al fresco, we savoured delectable beef cheeks. The restaurant’s ambience was perfect and soon we found ourselves engrossed in a conversation with a friendly Aussie couple seated next to us. After a 10-minute walk back to the hotel, we were happy to declare a successful second day in Amsterdam.
Day 3: More Art and Green Spaces
On our last day, we craved some green space. Amsterdam’s Vondelpark, a large urban oasis in the city’s center, was just the thing.
Conveniently, two art galleries—MOCO, a funky gallery featuring works by Andy Warhol, Banksy, and Damien Hirst, and the nearby Stedelijk gallery, known for its extensive modern art collection—are located right on the edge of the park.
We toured the galleries, enjoyed another al fresco lunch, and then headed into the park, where we stumbled upon a large LGBT rally. It was a fun, colourful, over-the-top celebration.
One unexpected and fun thing about Amsterdam was the street art. There are murals on buildings and sculptures everywhere throughout the city. The latest installation is a tribute to murdered journalist Peter R. De Vries. It was just unveiled a few days before we arrived in the Dutch capitol.
There are floral arrangements everywhere. Most of the pedestrian bridges are adorned with flowers and the city is delightfully colourful!
That evening, we treated ourselves to dinner at LARS a One Michelin Star restaurant that merits its own blog post.
Amsterdam’s Allure: My Top 10 Recommendations
- Take a boat ride to explore the 165 canals (and the 1700 bridges that span them!)
- Visit the Rijksmuseum to see the masterpieces of the Dutch Golden Age.
- Wander through the vibrant streets of the Jordaan district.
- Take a serene stroll or bike ride through Vondelpark (you can rent bikes everywhere.)
- Discover contemporary and street art at the MOCO Museum.
- Savour Dutch pancakes (Pannenkoeken) al fresco at a local café. (Shannon liked the peaches and cream.)
- Experience the Anne Frank House and its poignant history.
- Shop for unique souvenirs in the Nine Streets (De 9 Straatjes).
- Visit one of the many street markets and try some traditional herring.
- Unwind with a canal-side coffee, watching the world go by.
Getting There
From Vancouver, Canada, our home turf, Air Canada flies direct to Amsterdam – but we prefer KLM Royal Dutch Airlines. Their business class is quite special with meals being served on Delft blue pottery and their famous little Dutch houses, (filled with Dutch gin), being given out as a gift at the end of the journey. We found the food and service to be exceptional. There is also a good entertainment selection and the seats convert to a flatbed which is quite comfortable.
The Little Details
Amsterdam is not open 24/7. In fact, many of the shops and restaurants didn’t open up until 10 am or later on Saturday. Traditionally, all shops are closed all day Sunday and Monday mornings.
The Euro is the accepted currency. You can tap your way around the city. A couple of the cafes we went into did not take cash and Amsterdam is trending away from cash.
Make sure to avoid long queues for the most popular attractions – like the Anne Frank House and Van Gogh Museum. You can get electronic tickets online a couple of months in advance to avoid disappointment. (Click HERE to access available attractions.)
Tipping is not a big thing here. Some restaurants will include a nominal service charge but tipping is not compulsory.
Watch yourselves around the canals. Many of them have no fence or barriers and yes, tourists have fallen into the water.
If you choose to cycle, be sure to lock up your bike – with two locks as most locals do. Helmets are not mandatory but recommended.
Canadians do not require a VISA for The Netherlands if staying for less than 3 months.
What about the Red Light District?
Amsterdam’s Red Light District, known as De Wallen, is one of the city’s most well-known and unique neighbourhoods. It’s a mix of old and new, with narrow, winding streets and historic buildings alongside a lively, modern vibe. It is not an “attraction” but a small neighbourhood.
The area is famous for its legalized sex trade, where you’ll see workers in red-lit windows, which is how the district got its name. This part of the Red Light District draws a lot of curious tourists, but there’s more to the area than that. You’ll find plenty of bars, cafes, restaurants, and shops, making it a popular spot for nightlife.
The district has been a bustling part of the city for centuries with its canals and old buildings giving a glimpse into Amsterdam’s past. Recently, there have been efforts to clean up and modernize the area, adding more cultural spots like the Museum of Prostitution and the Oude Kerk, the city’s oldest church.
While the Red Light District is often associated with its nightlife, it’s also a place where you can experience a mix of history, culture, and entertainment, with a more relaxed atmosphere during the day and a busier, more energetic scene at night.
Also, drinking alcohol or smoking marijuana in the streets is not allowed. In fact, pot is not technically “legal” in Amsterdam, although you can use it in small cafes as the law is not enforced.
Addendum: Navigating Amsterdam’s Streets
To leave Amsterdam unscathed, you’ll need to master the art of crossing the street. First, you step from the pavement directly into a bike lane. If you survive that, there’s a car lane, followed by tram tracks. Take a breather on the meridian, waiting for your pulse to drop, before tackling more tram tracks, another car lane, and one last bike lane before you safely return to the pavement.
While trams and cars generally follow the usual rules of the road, Amsterdam cyclists are a breed apart. Their mantra seems to be, “we have the right of way and can go anywhere, anytime, at lightning speed!” They can be terrifying, especially during busy times, when they whiz past you at seemingly impossible speeds. If they have to slow down or, heaven forbid, stop, don’t be surprised by a snort of indignation.
Is this an exaggeration? Maybe, but a quick google search revealed that in 2023, there were 270 cyclist fatalities in the Netherlands, or about five every week. Interestingly, pedestrian fatalities in Amsterdam have steadily decreased from 132 in 1996 to 51 in 2022. But that’s still one a week! So yes, accidents do happen, and you need to stay vigilant, especially around those kamikaze cyclists!
Amsterdam more than just a jet-lag remedy!
So, there you have it – Amsterdam is a great place to spend a few days. In fact, after researching the details for this article, I have a few ideas for our next visit!
If you are on the West Coast and looking for a great travel agent with a special touch and some insider knowledge, we highly recommend David Lyons-Black. David also specializes in accessible travel for the disabled. Mr Lyons-Black can arrange your flights, hotels, car rentals and even get you show tickets for the best, no-hassle vacation possible. (Contact: David.lyons-black@travelmasters.ca)
Other European travel articles you may enjoy:
The Delightful Duoro River, Portugal
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