2025 had started off with a bang, in more ways than one. We wanted to change up our usual ¨vegging out on the beach in a Mexican all-inclusive¨routine. Where to? Mexico City (stay tuned) and el Pueblo de Oaxaca.
Oaxaca de Juarez, commonly known as Oaxaca City, is the capital city of the state of Oaxaca in southern Mexico.
Oaxaca was initially founded as a city in 1532 by the Spanish Conquistadors under the name Antequera. Later, it was christened Oaxaca after the Nahuatl word Huaxyacac, referring to a tree native to the region. The area has been an important indigenous settlement for centuries before the Spanish settlement. The primary inhabitants were the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples. Today, the city of Oaxaca has over 280,000 people with the surrounding municipalities taking the population to over 736,000 in 2023. There are over 19 different indigenous groups in the area and more than 34% of them speak a native language.
Oaxaca was a delightful surprise. Colourful streets and buildings, quaint hotels and bars, delicious cuisine and some out-of-the-ordinary experiences made Oaxaca worth the detour. It’s a town where history, culture, and everyday life blend together in a way that feels both timeless and lively. Think: architecture, food, markets, and quick escapes into nature. The real flavour of Mexico!
Architecture: A Walk Through Time
Oaxaca’s streets tell a story. Walking through the historic center, you’ll see a mix of colonial-era buildings, stone churches, and colorful facades. The Santo Domingo Church is the centerpiece, with an ornate interior and the Botantical Gardens adjacent. We spent a good hour wandering through the gardens enjoying the scenery and some rare birds.
The Zocalo (main square) is a place where everyone gathers – locals, tourists, musicians, vendors. The vibe is fun. Nearby, the pedestrian-friendly Macedonio Alcalá street is lined with arched walkways, leading you past cafes, galleries, and hidden courtyards. You’ll find delightful street murals and sculptures everywhere. Oaxaca is very colourful!
Buildings here have a way of pulling you in. Many house museums, artisan shops, or small restaurants where the walls have as much history as the food. Even the everyday homes, with their courtyards and tiled floors, show the city’s deep connection to its past. Our hotel in particular, Hotel Palazzo Borghese, was quite stunning, marrying European baroque elegance and the Dominican Spanish convent styles. We highly recommend the Siena suite on the first floor.
Food: A Place to Eat Everything
Oaxaca is a city built around food. Breakfast starts with hot chocolate and pan de yema, a soft, egg-based bread. The markets serve tlayudas, which are sometimes called Oaxacan pizzas—large, crispy tortillas loaded with beans, cheese, and meat.
Then there’s mole, (pronounced “mol-ay”), the sauce that Oaxaca is famous for. There are seven main varieties, each with a different blend of spices, chilies, and sometimes chocolate. I particularly enjoyed the mole coloradito – but you can also try negro (black), almendrado (made from almonds), verde (green), colorado (made with chilhuacle chilis), Chichilo (refering to the colour of a type of marmoset), amarillo (yellow), and manchamantel (clothes-staining!)
There’s a legend that mole was started by a group of nuns at the convent of Santa Ana in Puebla, which is a region nearby. Hearing the Archbishop was going to visit, the very impoverished nuns scraped together a sauce from anything they could find, including herbs, oil, salt, some turkey stock and chilies. It was a great hit and mole was born. Likely an apocryphal tale of course since similar sauces were being used by indigenous peoples pre-colonialism!
We took a food tour with a guide and just 2 other tourists. It was a great way to learn about the various food markets and the traditional foods. Small stands sell memelas, thick tortillas topped with beans and cheese, or tamales wrapped in banana leaves. We had to top it off with some Oxacan gelato, naturally.
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can try chapulines—crispy grasshoppers seasoned with chili and lime. They’re a local favourite and are often sprinkled on top of guacamole or tlayudas. Colin was a good sport and gave them a try. I was a bit repulsed by all the little legs, I’m afraid.
We enjoyed the roof top bars and restaurants in Oaxaca, where the views of the cathedral and the night sky were awesome!
This funky little town also has two 1 Michelin Star restaurants – one of which we enjoyed dining at, Levadura de Olla. Be sure to check out our review!
Markets: The Heart of the City
Markets in Oaxaca are more than places to shop. They are where people gather, eat, and share traditions. We visited two different markets that Oaxaca is famous for. The first was the Mercado 20 de Noviembre where you will find a huge variety of vegetables, meats, fruits, chilies, breads, and more. There were all kinds of fruits and veggies we had never seen before. The aromas were tantalizing – coffee, spices, carne asada (grilled meat) and chocolate notes – everywhere!
The Mercado 20 de Noviembre has rows and rows of food stalls, including the famous pasillo de humo, or “hall of smoke,” where vendors grill meat to order. You pick your cuts, they cook them over open flames, and you sit down with fresh tortillas and salsas.
The Benito Juárez Market is where you go for everything else—woven baskets, embroidered textiles, chocolate, mescal, and even handmade shoes. The sights and smells can be overwhelming, but that’s part of the fun. It’s a place to explore, sample, and see daily life unfold. The floral arrangements for sale were stunning. Planning a wedding or funeral? Just stop by the Benito Jarez Market and pick your favourites flowers – no need to plan ahead!
A Rich Culture of Music
One of the pleasant surprises in Oaxaca was the variety of music to be found. In the local square, we encountered Banda Musicians. Brass bands (banda) are common throughout Oaxaca, especially in Zapotec and Mixtec communities. These ensembles play at religious festivals, weddings, and even funerals, often featuring trumpets, trombones, tubas, and percussion. There were at least a dozen young men dressed in festive, matching uniforms, playing lively tunes and drawing a happy crowd.
Our first night we enjoyed listening to a guitarist/vocalist in a little restaurant. There were only 5 of us at various table comprising the audience for this very talented musician. Later on, we found another restaurant that featured a 4 piece classic rock band. On our second night, we noted that there was a different guitarist playing at the first restaurant. Apparently they had entertainment 7 nights a week.
We learned that there are several music festivals in Oaxaca during the year.
- Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) – Music plays a central role, from brass bands in cemeteries to haunting pre-Hispanic flute melodies.
- Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes) – A quirky festival in December with traditional music performances.
- Guelaguetza Festival – A showcase of indigenous music and dance from all over Oaxaca in the month of July.
The Wonderful Museums of Oaxaca
Oaxaca City boasts a rich array of museums that showcase its vibrant history, art, and culture. Here are a few of the best ones:
Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca
Housed in the former monastery adjoining the Templo de Santo Domingo, this museum offers extensive exhibits on Oaxaca’s history and cultures, from pre-Hispanic times to the present day. Highlights included a section showing artifacts from the local Zapotec culture and it was very impressive.
Museo de Arte Prehispánico de México (Rufino Tamayo Museum)
This museum features a personal collection of pre-Hispanic art amassed by Oaxacan artist Rufino Tamayo, providing insight into Mexico’s ancient civilizations.
Museo Textil de Oaxaca
Dedicated to the rich textile traditions of Oaxaca, this museum showcases a variety of fabrics and designs, highlighting the craftsmanship of local artisans.
Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca (MUFI)
This is a unique museum focusing on philately. MUFI offers an extensive collection of stamps and postal history, appealing to both enthusiasts and general visitors.
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca (MACO)
This one we missed, unfortunately. Located in a colonial mansion, MACO presents contemporary art exhibitions, featuring works by local and international artists. Be aware that it is CLOSED on Mondays!
For an excellent summary of all the Art Museums in Oaxaca, visit: piececollectors.com
Day Trips: A Little More to See
Oaxaca is surrounded by landscapes and villages that make for easy day trips. One of the most popular is Monte Albán, an ancient Zapotec city on a hilltop just outside town. The pyramids and terraces give you a sense of how advanced this civilization was, and the views stretch for miles. We took this excursion with a local guide through VIATOR and found it to be very informative and a lot of fun.
Another option is Hierve el Agua, a set of natural rock formations that look like frozen waterfalls. The mineral-rich pools are great for a quick dip, and the setting is quiet enough to feel like a break from the city. This particular tour is 8 hours, so it makes for a long day.
Many villages around Oaxaca specialize in traditional crafts. In Teotitlán del Valle, artisans weave intricate rugs using natural dyes. In San Bartolo Coyotepec, potters create black clay ceramics with a smooth, polished finish. These are not just souvenirs—each piece is part of a long tradition, often passed down through families.
Final Thoughts
Oaxaca City is simply delightful! The mix of history, flavours, colours, music and everyday life make it a place where every walk feels like an experience. Whether you’re wandering through a market, tasting something new, or exploring an ancient site, there was a lot to see and do.
Oaxaca City, Mexico – definitely worth checking out on your next visit to this remarkable country!
Read our review of LEVADURA DE OLLA – OAXACA’S Michelin Starred Restaurant
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