One of the interesting things about the town of Oaxaca is that it feels very authentically Mexican. Our recent visit to this charming town culminated with a sampling of the wares at this Michelin Starred eatery.
Tucked away in the heart of Oaxaca, Levadura de Olla is where tradition meets pure, delicious magic. Chef Thalía Barrios García takes the flavors of her hometown, San Mateo Yucutindoo, and turns them into something unforgettable—think rich, velvety moles, crispy chicatanas (yep, edible ants!), and the kind of dishes that make you want to slow down and savor every bite. Set in a charming courtyard, the restaurant feels like a warm embrace, inviting you to experience Oaxacan cuisine the way it was meant to be: soulful, vibrant, and straight from the heart.
It’s always a good sign when the gringos coming out of the restaurant are smiling, laughing and telling you that “it’s worth the wait”.
We were ushered into the interior of Levadura de Olla (Pot yeast), which consisted of several different large and small dining areas. Chefs were busy adding the finishing touches to their creations as we found our table. Levadura de Olla opened in 2019 and weathered the drought of the COVID years well. It earned its single Michelin Star in 2024 and was named one of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023.
Between the broken English of our charming young waiter and our Spanglish, we selected an appetizer to share as well as two different entrees. Levadura de Olla claims to serve “country-inspired dishes” that express their “gastronomic particularity and cultural heritage of ancestral techniques”. This includes using unique varietals of corn, chili peppers, seeds, tomatoes, herbs, mushrooms and pumpkins. On the menu, you will find “celebration & ceremonial” dishes that are true to traditional Mexican cooking.
To start, I enjoyed a surprising Cilantro Mojito cocktail with mezcal as its base while Colin had his usual “una copa de vino blanco. This white wine was a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from Guadalupe, Baja California in Mexico and was surprisingly good.
Our first dish was the oft-photographed tomato salad, which consisted of an assortment of colourful Oaxacan native tomatoes on a beetroot puree. The dish is topped with a fruit vinaigrette and quelites (young, tender edible plants with spices.)
My entree was a decadent confit pork rib flavoured with corriander seeds, thyme and garlic. This was served on a bed of bean paste made with avocado leaf, dried chili sauce pickled vegetables with chochoyte corn dumplings – perfectly executed and very rich.
Colin enjoyed the “Catch of the Day “cooked with butter and garlic and served with tomato rice, aioli, sautéed veggies and toasted almond flakes.
Dessert was a warm cornbread served with pixtle cream (mamey seed) and guava compote. The bread was not too dense and slightly sweet. The tartness of the compote complemented the light, sweet cream. A perfect finish to the meal!
Levadura de Olla has an interesting menu that caters as much to vegans and vegetarians as to carnivores. There are tamales, corn dishes, beans dishes and other plates that focus on vegetables as well as chicken, shrimp and beef. Basically, there is something unique and delicious for every palette. One of their signature dishes, which we didn’t try, was guacamole served with blue corn tostadas and grasshoppers. (Call me unimaginative!)
Unlike most of the Michelin Star restaurants that we’ve visited, there is no tasting menu at Levadura de Olla. Nonetheless, this restaurant and its dishes stand out as being well thought out and authentic and you can appreciate that with just a few courses.
By the time you scrape up the last bit of mole from your plate, one thing is clear: Levadura de Olla isn’t just about food—it’s about stories, memories, and the deep love Oaxaca has for its culinary roots. Chef Thalía doesn’t just cook; she celebrates, taking the best local ingredients and turning them into something that feels both exciting and familiar. Dining here is not just an experience—it’s an invitation to taste Oaxaca’s soul, one exquisite bite at a time.
We really loved the town of Oaxaca and dining at some of its very best restaurants. In our Michelin Journey, this restaurant ranks a 7.5/10.
Levadura de Olla
- Location: García Vigil 304, Centro, Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, México
- Open: Tuesday to Thursday 1 pm – 9 pm,
- Friday and Saturday 1 pm – 9:30 pm
- info@levaduradeolla.mx
- +52 (951) 269 9068
- View on Google Maps
You may enjoy reading about the other restaurants on our Michelin-starred journey:
Lars (Amsterdam, The Netherlands)
Kissa Tanto (Vancouver, BC)
Wild Honey (London, England)
St Lawrence (Vancouver, BC)
Cranes (Washington, DC)
AnnaLena (Vancouver, BC)
Masayoshi (Vancouver, BC)
Published on Main (Vancouver, BC)
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